Hiking in Chile: Santuario de la Naturaleza
Considering I don't need any special excuse to enjoy the outdoors rather than stay on task, someone's birthday made for a damn good excuse to check out Santiago's own Santuario de la Naturaleza, or "Nature Sanctuary" which is located about 20 minute drive from my apartment building.
On the way, the day's splendor gave an extra South American feel as the mountains and clouds got together to pretend they were a live volcano.
Cute.
The buzzkill upon arriving at the nature sanctuary is a big sign with a list of fees, which at the 10 dollar level for 9 axles and 17 people littering is understandable, but charging $2 a head to just walk in there I find excessive.
We were hailed by the surf who would do his lord's bidding to exact a fare from the way's foot travelers. If you ever do find yourself in this situation just tell that guy you're a vecino and you're going to dar una vuelta, no más. While pronouncing the last two words, constrict your velum in order to achieve a high-pitched, squeeky tone that is common to the local dialect. Shrug.
He will sigh, and shake his head.
Ask to see his lord. His lord will not be available.
Explain that it won't be a problem, pull out your cell phone and politely request his lord's number. Repeat the business about you being a vecino and coming here every day and "working it out with the lord" and "new here" and "still unpacking".
Be sure to occasionally gesture towards the park and make a circular motion with your index finger as you repeat the words dar una vueltita - remember to squeek - no más.
Chances are, though, you can just walk on by.
The park is essentially a canyon cut open by the Mapocho River, upriver, the poor thing doesn't know what it's
in for, but at this point in the game all it knows is sparkling, emerald innocence.
The trail leading into the sanctuary wends along the river.
Suddenly, seemingly out of nowhere, Juan Valdez showed up and poured a piping hot cup of coffee, then disappeared as quickly as he'd arrived.
Boy was that perfect timing!
Jokes and sunshine and smiles aside, it was bitter cold, my fingers were puffy and red as you'll see in a bit. But in the meantime this next photo is intended to underscore the juxtaposition of the summertime romance of wild blackberries and the awful thing that winter does:
Here's some more of that white gook all over the Andes mountain range:
At least there were cacti.
We kept hiking.
What I really wanted was a killer view of Santiago (or the brown smudge enveloping it), which would be on the other side of the elevation we were ascending. But it was one of those interminable roads where the money shot is always just around the corner and then earth and trees roll out from nowhere to obstruct the view so you have to climb higher.
I was all for hiking up further, but this cow wasn't having any of it.
Not just any cow, a mountain cow. She and her 18 some-odd friends really scared the living shit out of me to be quite honest. These cows really do rule the roost here, and did you see those horns? And the moo-ing sound they made? I'm serious, it was ferocious. One's was loud and baying, the other's deep and menacing.
We finally had it out with this all-black beast which didn't skirt away like the rest. Instead, it started walking toward us. I was too far to identify its sex, but its horns were more developed, small, but sharp and beginning to curl inward. Its eyes were bloodshot red and it seemed really pissed off.
I started to envision how the mauling would proceed, the bull washing his face in my blood. The embankment behind me was twice my height and nothing really to grab onto. The beast kept walking, but for some reason by us and not toward us. Then, like shafts of light breaking forth from the heavens, five black nipples shot down from the udder, and the angels sang.
Still, that was enough to send us down the mountain lickety-split. But at a safe distance, I gave them a piece of my mind.
Showed them who was boss. Take that, cows!
Closer back to civilization we had a re-encounter with Juan Valdez who served us a soothing cup of coffee and as he began to vanish told us, yes, there is a bull up there. Thanks for the tip Juan!
On the way, the day's splendor gave an extra South American feel as the mountains and clouds got together to pretend they were a live volcano.
Cute.
The buzzkill upon arriving at the nature sanctuary is a big sign with a list of fees, which at the 10 dollar level for 9 axles and 17 people littering is understandable, but charging $2 a head to just walk in there I find excessive.
We were hailed by the surf who would do his lord's bidding to exact a fare from the way's foot travelers. If you ever do find yourself in this situation just tell that guy you're a vecino and you're going to dar una vuelta, no más. While pronouncing the last two words, constrict your velum in order to achieve a high-pitched, squeeky tone that is common to the local dialect. Shrug.
He will sigh, and shake his head.
Ask to see his lord. His lord will not be available.
Explain that it won't be a problem, pull out your cell phone and politely request his lord's number. Repeat the business about you being a vecino and coming here every day and "working it out with the lord" and "new here" and "still unpacking".Be sure to occasionally gesture towards the park and make a circular motion with your index finger as you repeat the words dar una vueltita - remember to squeek - no más.
Chances are, though, you can just walk on by.
The park is essentially a canyon cut open by the Mapocho River, upriver, the poor thing doesn't know what it's
in for, but at this point in the game all it knows is sparkling, emerald innocence.
The trail leading into the sanctuary wends along the river.Suddenly, seemingly out of nowhere, Juan Valdez showed up and poured a piping hot cup of coffee, then disappeared as quickly as he'd arrived.
Boy was that perfect timing!
Jokes and sunshine and smiles aside, it was bitter cold, my fingers were puffy and red as you'll see in a bit. But in the meantime this next photo is intended to underscore the juxtaposition of the summertime romance of wild blackberries and the awful thing that winter does:
Here's some more of that white gook all over the Andes mountain range:
At least there were cacti.
We kept hiking.
What I really wanted was a killer view of Santiago (or the brown smudge enveloping it), which would be on the other side of the elevation we were ascending. But it was one of those interminable roads where the money shot is always just around the corner and then earth and trees roll out from nowhere to obstruct the view so you have to climb higher.
I was all for hiking up further, but this cow wasn't having any of it.
Not just any cow, a mountain cow. She and her 18 some-odd friends really scared the living shit out of me to be quite honest. These cows really do rule the roost here, and did you see those horns? And the moo-ing sound they made? I'm serious, it was ferocious. One's was loud and baying, the other's deep and menacing.
We finally had it out with this all-black beast which didn't skirt away like the rest. Instead, it started walking toward us. I was too far to identify its sex, but its horns were more developed, small, but sharp and beginning to curl inward. Its eyes were bloodshot red and it seemed really pissed off.
I started to envision how the mauling would proceed, the bull washing his face in my blood. The embankment behind me was twice my height and nothing really to grab onto. The beast kept walking, but for some reason by us and not toward us. Then, like shafts of light breaking forth from the heavens, five black nipples shot down from the udder, and the angels sang.
Still, that was enough to send us down the mountain lickety-split. But at a safe distance, I gave them a piece of my mind.
Showed them who was boss. Take that, cows!
Closer back to civilization we had a re-encounter with Juan Valdez who served us a soothing cup of coffee and as he began to vanish told us, yes, there is a bull up there. Thanks for the tip Juan!
posted by Chileno @ 5:01 PM
Share on Facebook
Search This Blog:
0 Comments:
Post a Comment
Links to this post:
Create a Link
<< Home