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Monday, May 28, 2007

Ranking Santiago Chile Smog Levels and Emergency Alert Conditions

Santiago, Chile is among the worst smog cities in the world. Chile's smog problem began with the industrialism of the 70's that has continued through to the current decade. At the present moment, it shows no signs of improvement as the major sources of emissions go largely unregulated.

Cars, trucks, wood-burning stoves and clandestine factories have free reign to fill up the valley's limited air space, and often times rain and/or wind (both rare for Santiago's climate) are the only solution to smoggy air.

The winter months (May through August) typically see the highest smog levels in Santiago, as cold air inversions settle in upon the enclosed valley, entrapping polluted air.

When it does rain, Santiago is spectacular. Eyes stop to itch, lungs stop to hurt, and everything sparkles with HD brilliance. It is short-lived, so act while you can. Ascend Cerro San Cristobal via road, trail or ascensor and witness the snow-blanketed Andes, called the Cordillera, burst into magenta with the setting sun. Even ugly concrete accident below called Santiago becomes enveloped in a pinkish haze, and something peaceful is felt.

Apart from these rare moments of beauty, however, the smog makes Santiago unlivable, according to my humble standards. The city's standards, however, look at my standards with ironic, bemused, and slightly intolerant expressions on their faces. Let's start with the city's standards:

During the winter the government issues smog alert warnings based on the number, per cubic meter, of particles with a diameter of 10 microns. Up to 100 PM-10 is considered "Good". Above that is "bad," until 300, which is "pre-emergency" and 500 is "emergency" smog.

When everyone behaves themselves, pre-emergency smog alert levels trigger the removal of more polluting cars from the streets, and smog kinda goes down. But calling 99 PM-10 particles "Good" seems ridiculous to me. US cities that hit 50 or 60 call emergency levels, warn children to stay indoors, refrain from physical activity and drink lots of water. In Chile, nobody lifts an eyebrow until these levels hit 300.

To check the current level of smog in Santiago, check out the Chilean Government Health Ministry's Santiago Smog Alert page.

UPDATE: as of Aug 1, 2007 the site is totally down. I'm going to suspect ineptness rather than maliciousness, but also note that practically every night on the news there's an environment alert. Smog is just out of control. This is progress. And a frickin' website doesn't work.

As you would be able to see, the levels of smog in La Dehesa, Las Condes, Vitacura and more affluent neighborhoods is typically less than Santiago Centro or the totally fucked Pudahuel, or El Bosque barrios, where all the factories are. And, oh yeah, poor people.

As bad as it is, Santiago does not rank among the top 10 most polluted cities in the world. These cities do.
 

21 Comments:

At 12:24 PM, Blogger Tsukino Hikaru said...

I agree it's bad, heck, I've always had problems breathing the air of this city even after (or maybe because of) living here for 10 years. Sadly, as you say, this is a problem that's old, and no one seems to have enough conscience of the problem to work at solving it.

I just found your blog yesterday, I'll be reading it periodically, good stuff ^^

 
At 3:27 PM, Anonymous Chileno said...

Thanks for reading, Tsukino.

 
At 3:31 PM, Anonymous Chileno said...

...and you're right, nobody's serious about the smog. But Santiago in many ways the only city where anything's happening in Chile, be it work, culture, entertainment, etc. So you're stuck here if you want the fruits of a big city. Let's do a poll, what would you say are other Chilean cities worth living in, with less/no smog?

 
At 3:39 PM, Anonymous Pato said...

I'd love to now what the hell you're doing in Chile. Not only your criticism of my country is abundant but it is also quite ignorant. While Chile is very much underdeveloped we do have plenty of advanced aspects to our life stlye and society in general. And, I can say so after living in the US for 5 years; two years in the Bay Area (cleaner than Valpo but certainly not as cool) and 3 years in the ever so pristine LA where clean-air practices are much more scarce than in Santiago.

 
At 4:18 PM, Anonymous Chileno said...

>>>I'd love to now what the hell you're doing in Chile.

Lovin' it. But it's not blind love. I find that many Chilean friends and acquaintances respond well to my criticisms of the abusiveness of major corporations like Telefónica and ineffective bureaucracy like the government which, in terms of smog, is endangering peoples' health through its negligence.

Sure LA is fucked. So is Lagos, Nigeria. But this blog is, among other things, about problems facing Chileans and things I feel people from abroad should know during/before visiting/moving here.

Pato, in order to properly defend Chile, you need to give concrete examples. So, with an open mind, I request that you please expatiate upon some of your general statements:

>>>we do have plenty of advanced aspects to our life stlye and society in general.

What are these advanced aspects to your life style and society?

>>>Bay Area (cleaner than Valpo but certainly not as cool)

How, exactly, is Valpo cooler than the Bay Area? Which part of the Bay Area? (Don't say Fremont)

>>>LA where clean-air practices are much more scarce than in Santiago.

How, exactly, are LA's clean-air practices less scarce than those of Santiago?

 
At 4:50 PM, Anonymous Pato said...

>>What are these advanced aspects to your life style and society?

1. Telecommunications: This actually one of the areas that you criticize a lot...the main theme in the US among wireless companies is to advertise that they have the fewest "dropped calls", term that doesn't even exist in Chile. It is absolutely normal to have your call interrupted by "network failures". Chileno, please agree with me that you can use your cell with more reliability in Chile (not only Santiago) than in the US...

2. Banking: Pay-Pal? who needs it, you can actually transfer money from bank to bank from your account on the web. There are no fees for using ATM cards in any machine from any bank (Redbanc). Unless you have a foreign credit card.

3. Machismo: While being very Latin American (traditionally very machistas) women are quite integrated in our society, workforce, politics, show business, everything.

etc, etc...

Compared to the US we are far behind but we do have some good things (never mentioned in your blog).

>>How, exactly, is Valpo cooler than the Bay Area? Which part of the Bay Area? (Don't say Fremont)

OK, I won't mention Freemont, I'll just say Fisherman's Wharf and its Pier 39 (vs. Muelle Vergara) and Union "Mall" Square (vs. Plaza de Armas). I wont't talk about San Jose vs. Vina del Mar.

>>How, exactly, are LA's clean-air practices less scarce than those of Santiago?

In the fact that in spite of having a very very flawed public transportation system (which we will fix), we actually use it.

SUVs in LA are more abundant than anywhere else in spite of having no need for 4 wheel drive.

BTW, the rich in LA usually live in the hills also (above the smog line)

If you ask any Chilean, they will tell you that we have a "rasca" country but we are still proud. Please try to mention a couple of good things about Chile or just go back home and forget about our little country that we really love.

 
At 5:52 PM, Anonymous Chileno said...

1. Cell Phones. You have a good point about reception in the US, which can suck depending on your service. Cingular is a lot better than T-Mobile, for example. I think Verizon is the best. When I had Cingular I almost never had a problem with reception. I paid about 50 bucks a month for 600 minutes, and free nights and weekends. In Chile I opted for the best, cheapest plan possible. I'm paying 26 bucks a month for 60 minutes, no nights and weekends. That's the best deal for foreigners like me. Chileans get a slightly better deal, but nothing near as good as the Cingular plan I described, and I think Cingular is offering a lot more minutes by now.

Also, when calling a cell phone in the United States, you don't get charged the absurd rates that Chilean cell phone companies charge. It's a normal call, based on your provider.

And back to reception, Chile is not perfect. Go to Laguna Verde (the beach south of Valpo) and there's no reception.

Overall, cell phone service in the US is MUCH better than in Chile. It's absurd to argue against that fact. And that's just a small part of telecommunications.

2. The Chilean equivalent to Paypal is a company called Transbank. In order to have an account with them, you have to deposit 1 million pesos (about $2,000 USD) which is only refundable when you close your account. That gives you the RIGHT to make transactions where they take a 5% cut every time.

En cambio, Paypal is free to open an account and the only time they take a cut is when you receive money, and that's 3%.

Online marketing to the hispanic world sucks, nothing converts in part because nobody trusts the security of internet transactions. With companies like Transbank, I don't blame 'em. I bought a Gol ticket to Buenos Aires and that shit was scary (the online transaction brokered by Transbank, not the flight).

ALSO, ATM transactions may be free but what about the monthly fees? According to one Chilean who has a savings account she uses to withdraw money her parents deposit, they charge huge monthly fees.

And to get a checking account, if you're Chilean, you have to pretty much own half of Chile. And a checking account is required for a US Visa. Pato, I'm sure banking is wonderful for you.

2. Machismo. Are you joking? Mexico is famed for Machismo, but they just legalized abortion. In Chile there is a serious movement to eliminate ALL forms of reproduction, including birth control pills and the IUD. The morning after pill is legal for 14+, but conservative catholics convinced the two pharmaceuticals producing it to stop. So there's no supply.

Lagos' ratings went up when he banged his fist on the table and asserted his masculine authority.

Due to political problems faced by the Concertación, I constantly hear Chileans say, "boy, that's the last time we're having a female president".

I didn't bring up Machismo. You did. I'm afraid don't have much going for you for this one.

>>>etc, etc.

Keep 'em coming!

>>>I'll just say Fisherman's Wharf and its Pier 39 (vs. Muelle Vergara) and Union "Mall" Square (vs. Plaza de Armas). I wont't talk about San Jose vs. Vina del Mar.

It's fun to compare, and everywhere's got it's good and it's bad. In my post about Valpo I pointed out things I thought were cooler than SF, so this isn't really a point of contention between you and me.

I could say "Bella Vista vs. Mission District" or "Union Square vs. Plaza de Armas right back atcha.

>>>very very flawed public transportation system (which we will fix),

I'll believe it when I see it. You believe it already, which is cute.

>>>If you ask any Chilean, they will tell you that we have a "rasca" country but we are still proud.

That's NOT my experience. Most Chileans I have spoken with agree that it has serious problems and they are NOT proud of it. You are proud of your country and that's fine, but please be respectful of your countrymen and avoid putting words in their mouths.

>>>we do have some good things (never mentioned in your blog).

Dude, can you read? It's called Archives, there's tons of "good things about Chile". You're a bad testament to your country's educational system if you habitually base generalizations upon erroneous information

>>>Please try to mention a couple of good things about Chile or just go back home and forget about our little country that we really love.

You'd love that. Are you somehow involved in the Chilean tourism industry? Why this unreceptiveness to constructive criticism?

 
At 9:45 PM, Anonymous Pato said...

My dear friend, I can see that you do not take constructive criticism that well...

I don't agree with any of your points and just some clarifications:

- My father owns a little hotel in the south of Chile which is not very profitable

- Therefore, I had to pay for my own university and post-graduate degree in the USA

- Being a foreigner in the US is certainly harder than being a foreigner in Chile. I don't have credit and the INS keeps harrasing me inspite of having a job and paying my taxes

- And there are lots of things that I don't like about this country but I find myself defending it most of the time because I am grateful of the opportunity to live among gringos.

- Also, I've mentioned that Chile is cleary behind the US in almost everything and we are clearly underdeveloped but we do not need people constantly making us look worse than we are.

- Finally, I made comments about your blog and not your education, integrity or personality...let's keep it a that level ok?

BTW, I like your latest article, it has some positive things...

 
At 10:02 PM, Blogger tomasdinges said...

BRING IT ON...THIS IS BETTER THAN CABLE!

Until that whole nice commentary, you know, lets just be friends..

Pato, thanks for the contributions to my friend Wills blog. It is much welcomed addition to this pequeno rincon del webworld...and the perspectives being pushed out of Barrio Brasil.

 
At 10:10 PM, Anonymous Chileno said...

I take criticism well when it is based on factual premises. Your erroneous and uninformed assumption that I don't write positive things about Chile makes it difficult to take you seriously.

A large body of my posts are dedicated to so-called "positive", "good" things about Chile. I have never been or will be obliged to write positively about Chile. I do so only because it reflects my experience at times.

"Negative" entries on this blog have, are and always will be constructively critical. Can you deny that? Read up and try to find a moment where a criticism that I make of Chile is not constructive? I seriously urging you to do so.

Talking about the smog, for instance, is constructive criticism. It raises awareness, which gives individuals a better opportunity to petition the government or make a healthy decision and leave Santiago, whose own government has repeatedly described the air quality as dangerous.

>>>we do not need people constantly making us look worse than we are.

I can't speak for other "people" but can you please elaborate on this idea that my complaints about Chile are exaggerated?

 
At 10:32 PM, Anonymous Chileno said...

You're right Tomás. I'm in no mood to make friends.

That said, Pato, I dare you to find something negative I've written about Chile that is not constructively critical. It doesn't exist. But if you think you can find it, lemme know! I look forward to your next comment.

 
At 1:43 AM, Anonymous Pato said...

Chileno, luckily not many chileans read your postings. Regretfully, more foreigners do.

I am sorry you don't want to make friends and you don't want to take me seriously. I thought I could take you for a reasonable person but then you got personal.

My English is not as rich as yours but my gringa girlfriend confirms that your tone is quite aggressive.

You will always have the last word in this exchange as you own this forum but please consider that you might be doing more harm than good to your host country.

 
At 1:57 AM, Anonymous Chileno said...

Dude, Pato, if you wanna write in Spanish go ahead. There's no rule against bilingualism on this blog, and if your Spanish is as "rich" as my English, then by all means let's level the playing field.

Because up to now my Chilean girlfriend has been reading your comments in English and has confirmed that you're a dumbass. Ha! Nah, I'm just messing witcha.

Seriously, though. Don't give me those puppy dog eyes and lament my unreasonable "aggressiveness". If
I recall correctly YOU began the conversation with:

>>>I'd love to now what the hell you're doing in Chile.

Which is fine. But don't fall back on this BARNEY style happy family kiss and make up let's just be friends bullshit. You may be happy making your little comments but I'm sweating I've got RATINGS to take care of GOD DAMMIT i mean for CHRIST'S SAKE DON'T YOU KNOW THIS IS MOTHER FUCKING CABLE TV!!!

 
At 2:21 AM, Anonymous Chileno said...

Okay, sorry Pato. My producer just brought me a Valium and a glass of water and I'm sitting in the Green Room thinking about what I said to you.

Sure, amigo. We can be friends. But when we go back on air you need to get your act back together. I asked you for something. I asked you to find me the posts where you feel my criticism of Chile is pure weá, and totally un-constructive. I'm serious. I want you to confront me with those posts and tell me why they're just me being a bitch. As you know, I'll fight back.

But that's the point for Christ's sake! The audience doesn't want to see friendship. They want to see you drop down from the rafters in a cape and mask spinning in a tornillo hasta la Plancha.

Of course, rule número uno of blogging is Never enter a Battle You Can't Win. So you were basically doomed from the moment I approved your first comment. I'll use a Tope to knock you cold and then decimate you with a Rana, estilo Huracan Ramirez.

 
At 12:54 AM, Blogger Tsukino Hikaru said...

OK I didn't read the last comments, but errr... I'm chilean. I was born here and have lived most of my life here (with an 8 year break in Canada and Panama) And I agee with things chileno posts here, heck, it's why I've kept reading this blog and added to my bloglines feed.

I always criticize this country and I do criticize the US too. I doubt there's any place that is 'good' and really praise worthy anyways. I'm not saying it's hell living here, but we have a long way to go and we aren't moving fast enough.

 
At 1:46 AM, Anonymous Faithfull lurker! said...

Hello Will,
After reading this petty bickering I have to say something in regards to many of the ignorant "Sudaca" comments. This is exactly WHY I don't like to stay in Chile very long. Chileans as a whole can't take constructive criticism well. Especially if it comes from a Gringo because then it touches on our "Hacienda" past. That's when the indegenous blood boils to the surface; after adamantly denying not having even one drop of Indian blood. There are some Chilenos who are enlighten and "get it". However these are the expections to the rule but it seems they are a small minority.

To me Pato shows typical proud-embarrassed & passive-aggressive Chileno behaviour, no? So you say, you are grateful of the opportunity to live amongst gringos. Thats very much like an Uncle Tom comment. Can I ask you, are you also grateful of living next to the blacks, Asians and other minorities that also inhabit San Francisco. It has one of the most racially diverse populations in the west coast. So I know you have seen more than just white gringuitos.

Pato says he is very proud of his beloved "Rasca" country and compatriots, yet he is dating a gringa. Trés Cliché!(((giggles)))Typical Chileno colorist behaviour when living in North America or Europe. Since in Chile the pretty white Chilenas do not give most men the time of day. Do you feel compensated now that after all those years your finally bedding some bland white chick?
Whilst there is a large percentage of the population falling under the umbrella term of "rasca" not all of Chile is like that. At least you pointed out where you fit most comfortably.

If the United States is so subpar or it did not live up to your childhood fantasies of what the US was going to be like. Then my dear what has kept you there all these years? No one is forcing you to stay. I know it's not the INS! It does not matter if you pay taxes or are rightfully employed if your paperwork is not settled properly then the INS will always be on your case no matter what. Even naturalized American citizens can be stripped of their American passport in certain circumstances with that law they passed. See most Chileans are to afraid of NOT "looking" good to the outside world. They care more of how other nations perceive them than doing anything proactive in correcting it's own problems. No that's to hard, it's easier if we pretend everything is perfect. When clearly there is no such thing as perfection. People like Pato clearly like to lie to themselves on all the wonderfull "advancements" but you know what Pato if you really want to strive for a more just Chilean society you can't be lazely sit in your laurels and be indifferent. Indifference is what keeps Chile from advancing to the next level. Will always blogs about how people are so passively indifferent when it comes to their own tragic circumstances.

Another thing did anyone here ever comment on how your command of the English language was not sufficiently "rich" enough to be perfectly understood in this discussion? NO! You did, my dear cherie. You just discriminated yourself by calling attention to your second-rate English, your daddy's financial difficulties and the rejection you feel by simply being a foreigner and not being fully accepted in the US. At least next time you are back in Chile you won't give Gringos or Gringas the "redcarpet" treatment like you did before. ;)

The most important lesson you should learn about American society is that by you bringing attention to mental hangups people will easily discard you. There are no second chances in the US hunny. For example you can blow your chances of landing your dream job just by uttering one word that shows you have "issues". Everyone has them but in American society you are expected to have dealt with them or conquered them by the time a person is in their early 20's. Clearly you have not moved on gracefully and I know your nearing or passed the age of 30.
As I finish writing this; I sincerely hope from the bottom of my heart that you Pato, can come to terms with your anger issues and find inner peace with your mental shortcomings you just blateantly shared on the internet. ;)(wink)

 
At 3:10 PM, Blogger Matt said...

complaining and bitching are both fun. i'm pretty good at it in real life so i created a blog focusing on the pretty things in chile. nice houses, the ocean, views and other such bollocks. it's actually kind of therapeutic not bitching about things when i'm writing blog posts. i mean, if i really wanted to be negative about valpo and chile it wouldn't take me much time to come up with a long list of shit but i can't be arsed and wanted to try to look for the positives in life.

just 'cos chileno writes down the negative's on his mind doesn't mean that's all he sees in chile. on the whole, positives are boring-people prefer bad news. at some point i'm going to have to start writng about the electricity cables in valpo, the poverty in valpo, the dog shit in valpo, the crap public transport in valpo, the lack of government participation in unesco valpo etc just to keep people reading my blog...

until then, it's kittens and colourful houses all the way...

 
At 1:14 AM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

TOM SAID ...

Cheer up, Pato - and both you and Will should have a 'cortado' together - hell, I'd even buy you both a Pisco-sour, were I still there in Stgo, as I was for most of May.

But I've read your sparring comments and, as usual, this 'peace-loving Canadian' will try to step between battling denizens of North and South Americas ;-)

I met with 'Chileno' a couple of times last week and I think he is in Chile for the same reason I've been there 24 times since 1988 - because we love Chile and Chilenos. And criticism is often a way of expressing our concern for your country. You ought to hear me criticize Harper (our PM) and the occasional problems we have here in Vancouver - or ask 'Chileno' about his views, say, on Senor Bush and his gang of neo-cons.

But we criticize our countries' blemishes precisely because we love our countries - just as we love your wonderful Chile!

Peace, Pato ...

'tio Tom' Vancouver, BC

 
At 10:04 AM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

I have been to Chile four times and the smog is certainly the biggest drawback to Santiago that I noticed but other than that I think the place is great. The nature and landscapes are amazing. What is with the petty bickering? No country has everything going for it but both the United States and Chile have a lot of great attributes. When you are foreigner in any country they don't roll out the red carpet upon your arrival. They also don't when you are a native.

 
At 1:11 PM, Anonymous Chileno said...

>>>What is with the petty bickering?

If you're referring to the back-and-forth with Pato, it's more for entertainment than anything else. I can be harsh, but I've found a lot of positive feedback from Chileans who agree with my criticisms of the country. I see smog, as well as a host of other problems, as harmful to residents of Santiago. Pato had is feelings hurt, and began the spat by using offensive language. Mind you, I have NO PROBLEM with offensive language, but the fact that he then turned the tables and expressed heartfelt shock for my harsh words displayed a hypocritical, passive-aggressive style of argumentation which was hilarious. I destroyed him. He also did a very poor job of explaining his positions. He could have made some good points about the shortcomings of the United States, but there were just a lot of factual inaccuracies and logical fallacies which he couldn't overcome. He offered that it was because his english was poorer, so I invited him to write in Spanish. He declined the offer.

>>>When you are foreigner in any country they don't roll out the red carpet upon your arrival.

Actually, I have been treated extremely well here by friends, especially upon my arrival. I was very impressed with Chilean hospitality. Settling in, dealing with institutions and the daily grind is a different story.

And Chile isn't even the most hospitable. Try a middle eastern country like Egypt, the warmth of reception I received from my Egyptian friends was incredible.

 
At 2:37 PM, Anonymous Faithful Lurker said...

Anon 10:04Am

Chileans are known to throw the red carpet to (caucasian) foreigners. Especially those that come from the North America, Europa and Australia/New Zealand. Chileans will be very accomodating. The situation changes drastically when we are talking about a neighboring Peruvian or Bolivian. Then it will resemble an "Ellis Island" welcoming.

And from personal experience as a "Southerner" when I lived on the West Coast and Up North people were very welcoming in embracing me to their city. It is not usually the case in the reverse. I do not think it's fair. When "Yankees" move down south it takes a while until they are seen part of the community.

 

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