Mi Smog, Tu Smog
The Santiago Metro (underground, tube, subway, subté) is an impressively sleek propaganda machine, those guys know how to convincingly push policy through models and slogans. For a while they were working on the "let people off the train before you push your way on" campaign. Lately, they've been taking a bite out of the crossing over the yellow line issue. In one Metro station a two-story high wall was covered in an ad warning people to stay behind the yellow line, which is nice of them, because they've probably already dished out more than they'd have to pay for 100 Chilean wrongful death lawsuits.
Metro is cool, and it can laugh at itself. One season it made a slew of puns about the fact that its name is also a unit of measurement, and when Transantiago sent the city underground, Metro warned us in advance we'd all have to learn how to share our square meter (metro cuadrado) of space. And no matter what pinnacles of creativeness ascended, or limbs went out upon, Metro always strikes a resounding chorus note, itself a spin-off from the ultimate declaration of Hispanic Hospitality:
Mi Metro, Tu Metro.
Irresistible. Of course, the brutish masses continue to assault train cars without letting passengers off first, but at least they know what they're doing is wrong. And I've begun to notice that now, unlike before, even in the vastest sea of oncoming human traffic, a Way is made (albeit thinly) for escape.
Not surprising that a combination of will, money and talent yields measurable results. If they were estimating a certain 20% effectiveness, they got it and it was worth every penny.
An added benefit is that it validates my vigilantism. When I charge out of the train in a blind beeline and feel the strange sensation of jawbones knocking and clicking against my shoulder and howls of indignation arise from the crowd, I turn around confidently, my hooded figure silhouetted by a two-story backlit sign that warns people to let people off before getting on, I raise my arm like Death and boom prophetically:
Mi Metro, Tu Metro!
With a foreign language, I don't always find the right words. But the point is, Metro's got my back here and everyone knows the rules.
Come smog, however, and Santiago is like a population of blinded deer stumbling about after the Bomb. Santiago hit pre-emergency levels again yesterday, and a photo in El Mercurio shows a thick bar of brown black smoke blocking out the view, not only of the Andes right next to the city, but of Cerro San Cristobal right in the center of town. Only its peak is visible.
Yet while most people are happy to complain about it, there seems to be a complete lack of consciousness that personal choices one makes can contribute to, or diminish, the level of carbon monoxide, sulfur dioxide and particulate matter in the air.
My vigilantism is absurd.
When politely asking a driver in a parked, yet idling clunker, to please turn his engine off because Mi Smog, Tu Smog, he ignores me until he breaks down into repulsed anger at this ludicrous and incomprehensible foreigner.
"Aaay, ya!," he whines, flicking back his hand and wagging his head, not really moving from his seat but giving the impression of impending violence. Slightly frightened, I stay, waiting for him to turn off his engine. And I'm late, slightly frightened, and I move on.
Not one peso that I know of has been spent on public awareness campaigns about how ordinary citizens can reduce emissions. Political leaders like Lagos, who is absurdly decorated with a UN Environmental position after an atrocious environmental presidency, go on record blaming Argentina.
A week ago, as smog edged up to pre-emergency levels and the air was particularly gray and thick, I noticed billows of smoke coming out of a residential patio. Burning wood in the fireplace is illegal in Santiago, because that contributes over 10% of the smog in Santiago. I flagged down a neighborhood security guard who happened to be driving by and pointed it out to him. Impatiently he told me, that's a BBQ, a BBQ. Do you know what a BBQ is?
Certainly nothing that causes smog.
That's just dumb. But even the effects of stupidity can be curbed by public awareness and laws that work.
Cars and trucks, which contribute at least 50% of Santiago's smog, are theoretically controlled by smog checks and big fines for drivers who hit the rodes without proper emissions controls. But El Mercurio reports that for the 70,000 trucks on the road, only 350 inspectors are assigned to regulating them. That's 214 trucks a day per inspector. That's totally ridiculous. And the law for cars is fucked up too: even if emission control was enforced, it's open season after 10PM: no catalytic converter, no problem.
And for all the government's complaining about the poor people burning wood, there are only 7 house-to-house inspectors assigned good days, 11 on alert days, and 20 on pre-emergency days. A couple weeks ago, when Santiago smog hit pre-emergency levels, only ONE house was cited for burning wood. In some slums there are about 50,000 wood burning stoves. And 15% of polluting factories were checked out.
Health functionary Mauricio Osorio points out that a lot of people simply didn't let the inspectors in. That's a classic Chilean way of not dealing with problems, and it totally works because people never follow up.
So Osorio shouldn't be surprised. If he were ignorant, poor, and the person knocking on his door didn't have a gun, he probably wouldn't let them in either. Santiago needs to get serious about smog, but I don't think it ever will. There's no public awareness, and there's no consequences.
Osorio is quoted as saying: "If you raise the number of inspectors, we're gonna have more fines and it'd probably be better, but it also has to do with personal responsibility, with each person being responsible for his own."
Couldn't agree with you more, dude. You and the hundreds of officials supposedly in charge of this failed city who are great at spouting out these gems of wisdom when your real job is to get shit done. But you won't, you're totally ineffectual, inept, probably corrupt and overall pathetic.
Meanwhile El Mercurio also reports that respiratory illness has jumped up 30%. Since the 20th of May a daily average of 1,000 people have gone to the doctor with respiratory illness, with 100 hospitalizations, mostly children.
Being a health minister, you can't be neutral about this shit. Inactivity is directly damaging the lungs of children, increasing cancer and death rates. I don't believe smog will ever be reduced in Santiago, because people are inept and unwilling.
But I do see how it could be improved: increase and enforce emissions laws. Hire more inspectors and assign cops to house-to-house missions, forcibly arrest people who don't let you in. Also, subsidize cleaner heating for poorer homes. Impound cars without catalytic converters, increase taxes on car purchases. Regulate 100% of polluting factories, including those that burn tires all night long. Call pre-emergency levels every single time they happen.
Start a public awareness campaign against smog. Chile's state coffers are overflowing due to copper revenue, and Chile can dump billions into roads and a failed Transantiago. Money is not an excuse.
And one more thing, Santiago: set better standards! Cincinnati just issued government alerts because smog bumped up to PM-90. In Santiago, that's classified as "Good". And Transantiago promised (and didn't succeed) to end the gov't declaration of pre-emergency levels.
But that's not a goal! The goal should be PM-30 maximum. In Santiago, these filthy hacks are satisfied at PM-300. Just as long as we don't have to call pre-emergency, we're happy.
Also, start measuring Carbon Monoxide levels. A University of Chile study says you're missing half of the real pre-emergency levels because you're not measuring carbon monoxide. That's scary.
Metro is cool, and it can laugh at itself. One season it made a slew of puns about the fact that its name is also a unit of measurement, and when Transantiago sent the city underground, Metro warned us in advance we'd all have to learn how to share our square meter (metro cuadrado) of space. And no matter what pinnacles of creativeness ascended, or limbs went out upon, Metro always strikes a resounding chorus note, itself a spin-off from the ultimate declaration of Hispanic Hospitality:
Mi Metro, Tu Metro.
Irresistible. Of course, the brutish masses continue to assault train cars without letting passengers off first, but at least they know what they're doing is wrong. And I've begun to notice that now, unlike before, even in the vastest sea of oncoming human traffic, a Way is made (albeit thinly) for escape.
Not surprising that a combination of will, money and talent yields measurable results. If they were estimating a certain 20% effectiveness, they got it and it was worth every penny.
An added benefit is that it validates my vigilantism. When I charge out of the train in a blind beeline and feel the strange sensation of jawbones knocking and clicking against my shoulder and howls of indignation arise from the crowd, I turn around confidently, my hooded figure silhouetted by a two-story backlit sign that warns people to let people off before getting on, I raise my arm like Death and boom prophetically:
Mi Metro, Tu Metro!
With a foreign language, I don't always find the right words. But the point is, Metro's got my back here and everyone knows the rules.
Come smog, however, and Santiago is like a population of blinded deer stumbling about after the Bomb. Santiago hit pre-emergency levels again yesterday, and a photo in El Mercurio shows a thick bar of brown black smoke blocking out the view, not only of the Andes right next to the city, but of Cerro San Cristobal right in the center of town. Only its peak is visible.
Yet while most people are happy to complain about it, there seems to be a complete lack of consciousness that personal choices one makes can contribute to, or diminish, the level of carbon monoxide, sulfur dioxide and particulate matter in the air.
My vigilantism is absurd.
When politely asking a driver in a parked, yet idling clunker, to please turn his engine off because Mi Smog, Tu Smog, he ignores me until he breaks down into repulsed anger at this ludicrous and incomprehensible foreigner.
"Aaay, ya!," he whines, flicking back his hand and wagging his head, not really moving from his seat but giving the impression of impending violence. Slightly frightened, I stay, waiting for him to turn off his engine. And I'm late, slightly frightened, and I move on.
Not one peso that I know of has been spent on public awareness campaigns about how ordinary citizens can reduce emissions. Political leaders like Lagos, who is absurdly decorated with a UN Environmental position after an atrocious environmental presidency, go on record blaming Argentina.
A week ago, as smog edged up to pre-emergency levels and the air was particularly gray and thick, I noticed billows of smoke coming out of a residential patio. Burning wood in the fireplace is illegal in Santiago, because that contributes over 10% of the smog in Santiago. I flagged down a neighborhood security guard who happened to be driving by and pointed it out to him. Impatiently he told me, that's a BBQ, a BBQ. Do you know what a BBQ is?
Certainly nothing that causes smog.
That's just dumb. But even the effects of stupidity can be curbed by public awareness and laws that work.
Cars and trucks, which contribute at least 50% of Santiago's smog, are theoretically controlled by smog checks and big fines for drivers who hit the rodes without proper emissions controls. But El Mercurio reports that for the 70,000 trucks on the road, only 350 inspectors are assigned to regulating them. That's 214 trucks a day per inspector. That's totally ridiculous. And the law for cars is fucked up too: even if emission control was enforced, it's open season after 10PM: no catalytic converter, no problem.
And for all the government's complaining about the poor people burning wood, there are only 7 house-to-house inspectors assigned good days, 11 on alert days, and 20 on pre-emergency days. A couple weeks ago, when Santiago smog hit pre-emergency levels, only ONE house was cited for burning wood. In some slums there are about 50,000 wood burning stoves. And 15% of polluting factories were checked out.
Health functionary Mauricio Osorio points out that a lot of people simply didn't let the inspectors in. That's a classic Chilean way of not dealing with problems, and it totally works because people never follow up.
So Osorio shouldn't be surprised. If he were ignorant, poor, and the person knocking on his door didn't have a gun, he probably wouldn't let them in either. Santiago needs to get serious about smog, but I don't think it ever will. There's no public awareness, and there's no consequences.
Osorio is quoted as saying: "If you raise the number of inspectors, we're gonna have more fines and it'd probably be better, but it also has to do with personal responsibility, with each person being responsible for his own."
Couldn't agree with you more, dude. You and the hundreds of officials supposedly in charge of this failed city who are great at spouting out these gems of wisdom when your real job is to get shit done. But you won't, you're totally ineffectual, inept, probably corrupt and overall pathetic.
Meanwhile El Mercurio also reports that respiratory illness has jumped up 30%. Since the 20th of May a daily average of 1,000 people have gone to the doctor with respiratory illness, with 100 hospitalizations, mostly children.
Being a health minister, you can't be neutral about this shit. Inactivity is directly damaging the lungs of children, increasing cancer and death rates. I don't believe smog will ever be reduced in Santiago, because people are inept and unwilling.
But I do see how it could be improved: increase and enforce emissions laws. Hire more inspectors and assign cops to house-to-house missions, forcibly arrest people who don't let you in. Also, subsidize cleaner heating for poorer homes. Impound cars without catalytic converters, increase taxes on car purchases. Regulate 100% of polluting factories, including those that burn tires all night long. Call pre-emergency levels every single time they happen.
Start a public awareness campaign against smog. Chile's state coffers are overflowing due to copper revenue, and Chile can dump billions into roads and a failed Transantiago. Money is not an excuse.
And one more thing, Santiago: set better standards! Cincinnati just issued government alerts because smog bumped up to PM-90. In Santiago, that's classified as "Good". And Transantiago promised (and didn't succeed) to end the gov't declaration of pre-emergency levels.
But that's not a goal! The goal should be PM-30 maximum. In Santiago, these filthy hacks are satisfied at PM-300. Just as long as we don't have to call pre-emergency, we're happy.
Also, start measuring Carbon Monoxide levels. A University of Chile study says you're missing half of the real pre-emergency levels because you're not measuring carbon monoxide. That's scary.
















13 Comments:
I lived in Santiago many many years, and no newspaper or anything else can bring back those days like your blog can. I used to bitch and complain everyday about how cars drive in bike lanes while cops stand idly by, etc. It's a really trying city, which slowly grinds you down. In the end i found the most sensible thing to do was to just pick up and leave. You can't win the fight against Santiago, just try to save your some of your sanity.
Christian
It's a tough call. I like bitching, but I don't like the things that make me bitch.
I'm staying in Santiago, but moving above the smog line shortly. Acting now will probably keep medical costs down in about 50-60 years.
The smog will never, EVER end in Santiago for a few reasons I can think of (feel free to add to or subtract from this list):
1. Government ineptitude. (As in the reverse-Midas touch exampled in Pinochet, Transantiago, etc.)
2. Classism. Smog affects poor people worse. Rich people live in cleaner neighborhoods, travel extensively and summer in the South. Poor people can hardly afford travel within Santiago.
3. Smog doesn't hinder foreign investment. Doesn't help that Bloomberg puts a smiley face on it either.
i don't know...i don't think santiago 'slowly grinds you down'; i think it crushes your soul the second you arrive. i remember my very first experience of santiago over 3 years ago now. i'd just spent 3 weeks in argentina travelling around. in argentina, people queue. i got on the bus in mendoza, queued up to have my ticket checked, queued up to olad my baggage on the bus and then queued up to get onto the bus. all very polite and orderly. i got off the bus in santiarsehole and got elbowed in the face by a 70 year old woman who wanted to get her bag off the bus first. i was then pushed over by a guy in his 20s just as i was picking up by stupidly heavy rucksack. that first experience of santiago (and, indeed, chile) made me detest the city. that hate hasn't gone away.
valpo's much cooler though, even if it's still populated by load of uncourteous, rude, ungracious and slightly miserable people. sorry, chileans. but much nicer chileans than those from santiago.
chile's got a lot going for it and chilean people are cool once you get to know them, but the lack of common courtesy is something that will never stop pissing me off. no one says please, thank you, excuse me or sorry. pushing people out of the way, as you describe on the metro, is seen as a great way to behave.
i honestly don't know how anyone can live in santiago if they have a chance to live somewhere, anywhere, else. santiago makes my second most hated city, bangkok, seem like shangri-la...
Matt's got a point. People outside of Santiago are a lot nicer. Valdivia is a city I really loved, the problem is having work there. The bulk of economic life is in Santiago.
As for smog, I can add a couple.
People have short memories. Everytime it rains more than 30 minutes, Santiago floods. Everyone decries the tragedy and vows to prevent them. But the same people don't hold their authorities accountable the rest of the year, making sure that the water collection systems are kept clean *before*it actually floods.
Another one is that a mostly private health system means that most of the health care costs associated with smog don't hit state coffers so directly.
Finally, no one will sensibly promote bike use, because that would be admitting that Transantiago is a lamentable mess.
I hope you find a good place above the smog line. Just make sure you think about the commute before you commit to a room/appartment/house. In my time living close to the metro was the thing, as it was clean, safe and reliable, even though people were rude.
cheers,
Christian
There are a few grass roots cyclists movements popping up. Some of them may be able to put pressure to make Stgo more bike friendly but I don't know how much popular support they have. I think most people see them simply as obnoxious eccentrics.
Matt, you should have decked that granny (I would've). Your first impressions of Santiago would have been gilded with Conquest and Victory, rather than lack of hospitality. Law of the Animal.
>>>People have short memories.
Because of the smog. It's a Smog-22.
>>>people don't hold their authorities accountable
Exactly. There is absolutely no accountability.
>>>think about the commute
I telecommute but don't worry: it'll suck just as bad with Telefonica or VTR at the wheel.
You:
>>>grass roots cyclists movements...most people see them simply as obnoxious eccentrics
Could be. I see them as a ridiculous farce, at least in the blogosphere. When smog hit record levels a couple weeks ago all they could do was Suck Car Dick. I tried to call out with debatable statistics but solid logic, yet nobody got the point.
With activists like these, who needs enemies?
Gosh the stereo of Sureños being more firendlier is outdated. Perhaps 20-year's ago the people in the Lake District were sweet and courteous. Now alot of those customs have gone out the window since people want to be "modern" and anything that shows respect or civility is deemed "viejo" and uncool. And don't forget in Chile your ancient if your over 30-years-old. I always chuckle at the newspaper ads that write a minimun of 8-years of work experience and no over 30+year old applicants. So when did they expect applicant to get out of college at 17? Oh an the costum of putting a possport like picture in the "curriculm", resume for Yanks on the top right side. We all know an open secret that is a way of companies weeden people out by the way they look. I know that is one of the reasons why people are always angry and rude to each other.
Anonymous: Gosh the stereo of Sureños being more firendlier is outdated.
Could be, your mileage may vary, but you have to keep in mind this is Santiago we're comparing Valdivia with.
Christian
Christian
The whole country has caught up with the capital. Santiago is no longer steps ahead as it once was. The media and techonology have blurred the differences between the belly button of the country and the provincias. Found people in Valdivia to be just as rude and crass as the haughty Santiaguino who think very highly of themselves. The days of finding "Southern Hospitality" in the Lake District are long gone. When I call people out in their rude behaviour, they stop and give me a blank state, like a "deer caught in the headlight" Even in the tony restaurants the service is much to be desired.
And in terms of smog, too, all of Chile's other 'major' cities are catching up.
Re: manners. Just got back from a weekend in Mendoza and was almost bulldozed over at the bus station, trying to send a letter via bus. Well, the Condor mail delivery office literally smelled like cowshit so we had to move on. The Pullman office re-directed us to another Pullman office and as I was walking out the door I realized something was in my way first one this fatty-ass teenage chick, soundlessly pushing to enter and when I noticed I let her by. I then said, "oye!" and encouraged her to use her grown-up words next time.
Deer in the headlights PLUS that skeptical "oh, crazy foreigner" look. Even after a couple days in Argentina you get really used to people treating each other with class and dignity. It takes some adjusting when you get back to the Zoo.
THAT SAID I had wanted to update this entry because a couple days after complaining that no body listened to me when I confronted them about extraneous car emissions, well - I tapped on the window of this converted school bus idling with a chick at the wheel and her boyfriend in the passenger seat. She, said, "oh yeah, the smog" and turned the engine off.
Incredible.
It's great how we can feed off and continue an idea one of us started! Not only did the rest of the country adapt to most of the nasty habits from the capital. They also got the smog and violent crime to go along with it. YAY! That's the progress and "modernismo" people mention.
Wills was the fatty-arsed teenybopper wearing a super tight slutty shirt and super lowrise bootcut jeans three sizes to small? I could imagine the eyesore with all those greasy chichos(lovehandles)sticking out. Ewwlll! These girls need to face reality. . . . Dressing like that is the exclusive domain of tall and super skinny girls, besides it's already a "tired look". She really has some nerve dressing like that, with her shiteous figure of hers.
>>>was the fatty-arsed teenybopper wearing a super tight slutty shirt and super lowrise bootcut jeans three sizes to small?
Yep.
Did you take a picture of her?
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